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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.